Henri Bonneau & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Marie Beurrier

The 2019 750ml is all ripe black cherry, raspberry and plum at first, then the more beguiling details arrive: olive, fine leather, pepper and the scent of Mediterranean scrub. Its generous, enveloping texture gives the fruit room to spread, while integrated tannins keep the mouthful composed. Earthy spice and dried herbs linger through a long, warm finish. This is the pleasure of Grenache with a savoury, distinctly Provençal accent.

In the 2020 750ml, kirsch and pepper mingle with garrigue: the scent of wild Mediterranean herbs. Fine tannins and lively freshness give it an elegant bearing. There is breadth here: the cherry character feels generous, the herbal fragrance keeps things interesting, and the pepper gives the fruit a deliciously savoury edge. It is a compelling expression of the cuvée’s combination of richness and finesse.

For a table of Rhône enthusiasts, the 2019 1.5L magnum is a particularly wonderful prospect: the same cuvée and vintage, with twice the volume of a standard bottle to share. An exceptional wine deserves equally enthusiastic company.

Contains sulphites.

• Roast lamb, rosemary and garlic: Let the meat develop a good crust, then serve with its juices and roasted aubergine. Lamb’s richness suits the wine’s generous texture, while the herbs pick up its garrigue character. A mushroom daube makes an equally savoury alternative.
• Duck and porcini: Spread Lafitte Duck Pâté with Porcini on toast, or cook duck breast with a pan of browned mushrooms. Earthy flavours and a little fat give the fruit and pepper something delicious to work against.
• A proper cheese finish: Cut Comté Prestige 24 months AOP into generous pieces and serve with plain bread. Its nutty, savoury depth makes a satisfying partner; keep sweet chutneys on the side.

Henri Bonneau’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape domaine covered just 6.5 hectares; its reputation travelled far beyond the village. Low yields and patient maturation in old wood help explain why these wines are so elusive. The name on the bottle still has to be earned in the cellar.

In 1996, Henri made neither Marie Beurrier nor Réserve des Célestins. After years in barrel, he selected a handful of casks for a simpler Châteauneuf-du-Pape and sold the rest to négociants. Even a famous label could wait.

Marie Beurrier, first made in 1988, takes shape through barrel selection close to bottling. That marriage of tiny scale and exacting judgement is part of its fascination. Henri died in 2016; his family and longtime collaborator Daniel Combin continued the work. The 2019 and 2020 carry that remarkable cellar’s story forward.

Store unopened bottles horizontally at a steady 10–15°C, away from light, heat and vibration. Serve at 15–17°C. After opening, re-cork promptly and refrigerate upright; enjoy within a few days, allowing the wine to warm gently before serving.